Look of the week: Saint Laurent’s see-through shoes reveal fashion’s growing foot fetish

Look of the Week: Saint Laurent’s see-through shoes spark a new era of foot-centric fashion

Look of the week – For the first time in recent memory, the fashion world’s attention has shifted to a detail once overlooked: the feet. At the men’s Summer 2027 Saint Laurent presentation in Paris, Anthony Vaccarello’s latest collection defied expectations by centering the foot as a focal point. The runway, typically a stage for bold silhouettes and dramatic fabrics, was interrupted by a series of designs that exposed the toes, drawing a sharp contrast between the elegance of tailored suits and the audacity of transparent oxfords.

The show opened with a classic slate blue suit, its fluid trousers and boxy, 80s-inspired jacket evoking a retro aesthetic. Yet the final look, a pair of clear vinyl shoes, upended the presentation’s tone. As the models stepped onto the catwalk, their toes gleamed under the lights, a visual cue that felt both avant-garde and unapologetically provocative. The Parisian heatwave, which set a record for June temperatures, amplified the effect—models’ feet seemed to radiate heat, creating a sensation that was as much about the environment as the design itself.

Following the oxfords, a range of footwear in muted tones emerged, blending corporate colors with a sense of intimacy. Accordion-folder brown and taupe shades mirrored the structured tailoring, suggesting a mood where the foot is both a functional and expressive element. The choice of material, notoriously difficult to breathe, contributed to a humid atmosphere, causing visible condensation on the shoes’ upper surfaces. This detail, while practical, also added a layer of discomfort that mirrored the tension between elegance and transgression.

The Foot Fetish Trend: From Runway to Red Carpet

Foot-focused designs aren’t new to fashion, but their recent resurgence suggests a cultural shift. The Saint Laurent collection builds on a trend that has been gathering momentum for years. Jonathan Anderson, now at Dior after his time at Loewe, has long been a pioneer in this space. His collaboration with Nina Christen, a designer known for unconventional footwear, has produced viral pieces like balloon-pump shoes and soap-shaped heels. These creations blur the line between whimsy and seduction, redefining what it means to wear a pair of shoes.

Meanwhile, The Row’s minimalist approach to footwear has also captured attention. Simple mesh flats and jelly shoes, though understated, have become highly sought after. Despite the brand’s reputation for quiet sophistication, its shoes often sell out faster than its pricier tailored pieces, hinting at a broader audience drawn to the brand’s playful edge. Tory Burch, with her Palm Beach-inspired aesthetic, has also embraced the foot fetish, featuring a neon-orange high-vamp pump in its latest collection. This choice balances glamour with a touch of rebellion, fitting for a generation that values boldness in style.

Even Chanel has not been immune to this trend. Matthieu Blazy’s resort show in Biarritz last spring ignited debates with sandals that exposed the heels and toes, leaving audiences to wonder whether it was a deliberate act of luxury trolling or a nod to a lifestyle so extravagant that new footwear categories were necessary. The same conversation is now surrounding Saint Laurent’s see-through shoes, which have become a symbol of fashion’s evolving fascination with the feet.

Historical Roots and Modern Relevance

The focus on feet in fashion stretches back decades. The Margiela Tabi boot, introduced in the 1990s, was one of the first designs to challenge norms by incorporating a Japanese split-toe style. Its paint-encrusted finish and rigid structure made it a cult favorite, foreshadowing the current obsession with foot-centric designs. Now, with the rise of social media, the feet have become a new canvas for expression, amplified by the visibility of celebrity models.

“Shoes are an easier, less expensive and more fraught acquisition than clothes,” observed fashion and culture journalist Amy Odell. This insight underscores a shift in consumer behavior. While handbags once dominated the conversation, their allure has waned. The Birkin, once a symbol of exclusivity, now feels more accessible, leading some to question its status as a luxury icon. In contrast, the foot remains a site of intrigue, where designers can explore themes of vulnerability, power, and playfulness without the same level of scrutiny.

Vaccarello’s decision to feature transparent shoes at the Paris show highlights the growing confidence in showcasing feet as a design element. The effect is both theatrical and intimate, as the audience is invited to focus on the feet while the rest of the outfit maintains a sense of formality. This duality mirrors the broader tension in contemporary fashion—between the polished and the primal, the structured and the sensual.

Stars and Shoes: The New Runway Narrative

The rise of foot fetishism in fashion is also tied to the changing role of celebrities in the industry. For years, runway shows relied on star-studded front rows to create a spectacle of glamour and influence. But with icons like Hailey Bieber and Kim Kardashian modeling for everyone, from the paparazzi to the everyday consumer, the need for a star-driven narrative has diminished. This shift has allowed designers to experiment with feet-centric pieces without the pressure of aligning with a celebrity’s image.

Yet, the presence of stars still shapes the conversation. When Charli XCX lit Madonna’s cigarette before Vaccarello’s show, it was a moment of celebrity flair. But it was the see-through shoes that truly captured the imagination, sparking debates about their audacity and aesthetic value. These designs, while controversial, are also conversation starters—drawing attention to the feet in a way that feels both modern and timeless.

As the fashion calendar moves toward Spring 2027, the foot remains a key point of interest. Designers are increasingly using footwear to communicate a brand’s identity, whether through transparency, color, or texture. The Saint Laurent oxfords, with their glossy finish and minimalist silhouette, exemplify this trend. They are not just shoes but statements, challenging the audience to reconsider the role of the foot in fashion. In a world where every detail matters, the toes have become the new conversation piece, redefining what it means to dress the part.

Look of the Week: Michelle Obama honors her late mother in a custom-made skirt

While the fashion world grapples with the feet fetish, other trends are also making waves. This week, Michelle Obama made a powerful statement in a custom-made skirt, paying tribute to her late mother, Marian Robinson. The piece, crafted with a timeless elegance, reflected both personal sentiment and a broader appreciation for understated sophistication. It reminded observers that fashion, at its core, is about storytelling—whether through the smallest details or the grandest silhouettes.

Michelle Obama’s choice to highlight her mother’s legacy through her attire underscored the intersection of personal history and public image. The skirt, while modest in design, carried a weight of meaning that resonated with audiences. This moment, though separate from the foot-focused trends, reinforced the idea that fashion is not just about aesthetics but also about connection and memory.

As the industry continues to evolve, the balance between innovation and tradition will remain a central theme. From the see-through shoes of Saint Laurent to the tailored elegance of Michelle Obama’s skirt, the current moment is defined by a willingness to explore new frontiers while honoring the past. This dual focus ensures that fashion remains both a mirror and a catalyst for change, reflecting the complexities of modern identity.