Before Korean food was cool, Corey Lee was already redefining it
Before Korean food was cool, Corey Lee was already redefining it
Before Korean food was cool Corey – In the ever-evolving world of gastronomy, where trends shift like seasons, some chefs emerge not as followers but as pioneers. Corey Lee, a 48-year-old culinary visionary, is one such figure. His journey began in the United States, far from the vibrant food culture of his birthplace, Seoul. Growing up in a suburban New Jersey town, Lee’s early years were marked by the absence of Korean cuisine in mainstream dining. Gochujang paste was a rare find, and kimchi, though a staple in Korean households, was not yet a trendy ingredient in upscale restaurants.
A Culinary Awakening in the Kitchen
Lee’s path to fame started with an unexpected summer job in 1995. Fresh out of high school, he took on a role at Blue Ribbon Brasserie in New York, a decision that would redefine his life. “I fell in love with it right away,” he recalls, reflecting on the intense energy, creative freedom, and shared purpose that defined the kitchen environment. The job, initially meant to last a few months, became the catalyst for a lifelong passion.
“I was hooked from day one.”
His parents, traditional Korean immigrants, had little exposure to the world of professional cooking. They envisioned a future in finance or engineering, not a life spent behind a stove. But Lee’s fascination with the culinary arts was undeniable. “In the training period of my career, I would never think that I’d be serving kimchi at a fine dining restaurant,” he says, a sentiment that now feels both inevitable and groundbreaking.
From French Kitchens to Korean Innovation
After his summer at Blue Ribbon, Lee immersed himself in the French culinary tradition, a path that led him to London and eventually to Thomas Keller’s renowned The French Laundry in 2001. There, he ascended to the position of head chef, playing a pivotal role in the restaurant’s historic three Michelin star achievement in 2007. Keller’s philosophy—blending personal memories with refined techniques—left a lasting impression. “He was able to reflect his upbringing, his Florida roots, his humble childhood,” Lee explains, “even the kind of low-brow food we don’t usually associate with fine dining, like mac and cheese, and really celebrate them.”
“He (Keller) was able to reflect his upbringing… and really celebrate them.”
This approach resonated with Lee, who later applied it to his own culinary identity. When he launched Benu, a contemporary East Asian restaurant in San Francisco, he sought to honor the flavors of his Korean heritage through a modern lens. The menu, a fusion of East Asian traditions and French fine dining, incorporated elements like Chinese 1,000-year-old eggs and Jinhua ham, alongside Japanese sake and wasabi, and Korean perilla and fermented chili. The restaurant’s 12-course tasting menu, once priced at $160, now exceeds $425, a testament to its evolution and acclaim.
Roots in Tradition, Refined by Innovation
Lee’s childhood in the US was shaped by the culinary practices of his Korean parents and grandmother. His mother’s delicate, home-style cooking—emphasizing mild flavors and clean ingredients—contrasted with his grandmother’s strict Buddhist diet, which prioritized umami-rich broths, aromatic herbs, and fermented foods. These influences became the cornerstone of Lee’s technique, guiding his approach to seasoning and balance. “Food was such a big part of what we talked about,” he recalls, highlighting how family meals were a source of cultural connection and inspiration.
“Food was such a big part of what we talked about; we tried to recreate Korean cuisine in America.”
This blend of tradition and innovation is also evident in his recent ventures. In addition to Benu, Lee has expanded his influence with a smart-casual Korean barbecue joint in San Francisco, a concept restaurant within a Singaporean car factory, and a collaboration with a South Korean kimchi brand to develop gourmet versions of the fermented staple. Each project reflects his commitment to elevating Korean cuisine beyond its traditional boundaries while maintaining its cultural essence.
The Global Impact of the Korean Wave
The Korean wave, or Hallyu, has undeniably shaped the rise of Korean cuisine on the world stage. From K-pop to K-beauty, the cultural phenomenon has brought global attention to Korean food, with exports like kimchi reaching record levels last year. Overseas branches of Korean food companies have also surged, increasing nearly 25% since 2020. This growing demand has created opportunities for chefs like Lee to merge Korean traditions with international techniques, offering a new generation of diners a sophisticated take on familiar flavors.
“The Korean wave has swept the globe, from K-pop to K-beauty, and Korean cuisine has soared in popularity.”
Lee’s work is a direct response to this cultural momentum. While he acknowledges the broader trend of Korean food becoming a global favorite, he emphasizes that his journey began long before this recognition. “I’ve been focused on redefining Korean cuisine through a contemporary lens for over a decade,” he says. His restaurants, such as Benu, serve as platforms to explore the intersection of Korean heritage and modern gastronomy, challenging preconceived notions of what Korean food can be.
A Legacy of Balance and Flavor
At the heart of Lee’s culinary philosophy is the art of balance. Drawing from his mother’s gentle cooking and his grandmother’s disciplined approach, he aims to create dishes that are both comforting and refined. “The key is to honor the ingredients without overpowering them,” he explains. This principle is evident in Benu’s menu, which combines East Asian staples with French precision and California’s fresh produce. The result is a dining experience that feels both nostalgic and forward-thinking.
“His mother’s mild and clean home cooking style… has been a major influence on his approach to balancing seasoning in his dishes.”
Lee’s success is a product of his relentless pursuit of excellence and cultural curiosity. While his early career was rooted in French techniques, he has consistently returned to his Korean roots, transforming them into a global language. His work not only celebrates the flavors of his homeland but also reimagines them for a new era. As the world embraces Korean cuisine, Lee’s contributions stand as a bridge between tradition and innovation, ensuring that the legacy of Korean food continues to evolve.
Conclusion
From a suburban New Jersey upbringing to the Michelin-starred kitchens of San Francisco, Corey Lee’s journey is a story of resilience, creativity, and cultural pride. His ability to blend the past with the present has positioned him as a leader in the redefinition of Korean cuisine. As the Korean wave continues to shape global tastes, Lee’s work remains a beacon of how traditional flavors can be elevated into modern art.
